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November 10, 2015
Installing the Drive Train
whole summer and fall was occupied with getting the tub under paint.
That done, I could finally return to the rolling frame and start
bolting on some of the big heavy lumps that have been cluttering every
horizontal surface in my shop for a year or more.
First up was
this rather ungainly contraption. It's the rear transmission
mount. It's been powder coated and fitted with new rubber parts
and original hardware.
brought the rebuilt engine up from the shop, and started prepping it to
go into the frame. It has to be married to the gear box, and both
installed as a unit. First, the flywheel and clutch
had to be mounted. The pilot bearing for the gearbox input shaft
goes in the flywheel. It's captive, so has to go in before the
flywheel is mounted.
is held on by four beefy hex screws. Torquing them just tends to
turn the crankshaft, so I had to install the exclusive ACME 1000B
is the clutch disc, which has to be aligned precisely with the pilot
bearing, or the gearbox input shaft will never mate properly.
Luckily, there is an alignment tool for this.
The rest of the clutch assembly is then fastened into place.
I hauled up the rebuilt gearbox, and checked the clutch actuating components in the bell housing. I still had the original bell housing bolts.
I was doing this solo, so my recruited my shyhook to help with the mating ceremony.
the skyhook to the engine/gearbox, and lifted it out of the
cradle the engine has been in for nearly two years.
Bolted the front motor mounts to the engine, and took it on
home. Finally--body and soul together again!
To finish off the drive train, I dug out the rebuilt drive shaft. It was pretty satisfying to slide it into place.
is a common complaint among TR6 owners that the damper wheel at the
front of the engine is so close to the steering rack that a fanbelt
can't be squeezed through. Well, I found that by keeping all of
the motor and gearbox mount bolts loose and pushing back on the engine,
there was enough leeway in the slotted mount holes to get 1/2 inch of
clearance. That should be enough to sneak a fanbelt through.
going to install the exhaust system before the tub goes on the frame,
and also want to investigate some carburettor heat shielding, so I went
ahead and installed the exhaust and intake manifolds.
And the starter.
And the clutch slave.
And the water pump.
I can never seem to remember to order gaskets, so that's a
home-made one. It takes a little time, but they always fit.
And lastly, my home made fan eliminator.
I'm getting dangerously close to getting the tub back on the frame!
Comments to Ed at: firstname.lastname@example.org
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