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January 6, 2024

Dash Install

The dashboard represents a pretty substantial change from stock on this car.  The re-arranged center dash adds two additional gauges, and moves all switches to a Jaguar-esque single row of rockers.  Another primary design goal was to connectorize the left and center dash panels so that they could be physically removed just by unmating the connectors.

Nearly three years ago, when I did the physical layout of the center dash, I applied it to the metal dash panel in the car to check for interference.  I expected some problems, and wasn't disappointed.  The switches fouled the bottom of the opening in the center dash.  Minor surgery was required.

I try to avoid making irreversible changes to the car, but in this case, I'm not sure that even a knowledgeable person would notice it.




Fast forward a few years, and we have all the wiring installed, including the connectors.  There are two connectors for the left dash: One to the Power Module, and one for the steering column controls.




For the center dash, there are three circular connectors:  One for the cable to the front of the car, one for the rear, and one to the Power Module.  There are also connectors for the heater fan, and tubing connector for the oil gauge line.  The front and center dash panels each have one more circular connector that connect to each other.




The panels have corresponding connectors.




My dream of totally modular dash panels was crushed a little when I realized that the left dash couldn't actually be installed as a unit with the steering column in place.  Not wanting to drop the column, the tach and speedometer had to be removed and re-installed after the panel was in place.  This was a bummer.  It meant I still had to fiddle blind under the dash.




The modular approach worked fine for the center dash though. 




There was one more interference problem though.  The switches fouled the dash brace rod, which I didn't have installed during the earlier test fit.  A re-designed rod positioned a little lower fixed that right up.




Finally, the right dash panel.  It has no electrickery at all.




With a little tweaking of some of the mounting holes, all of the panels finally fit OK.




With everything then electrically connected, I could do the final electrical systems check.  Instead of powering the system from the battery, I started out with this power supply.  It can be set to limit current, so any shorts could be detected, but couldn't cause any damage.  With no shorts found, I finally switched over to the battery. 




There were a few problems, but nothing too major.  There was a wiring error.  The ignition light doesn't work, but that appears to be a bad regulator in the alternator.  The reverse lights don't work, and it appears to be the switch.  This is frustrating because I know it worked when I installed it.

I'll wait to do the final button-down of the dash panels until I'm sure they don't have to come out again, but I think this job is essentially done.




The electrical system was a long haul on this project, but it was my own fault.  It's hard to say what the total cost was, but certainly higher than a new stock harness.

Comments to Ed at elhollin1@yahoo.com

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