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February 7, 2009

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Ready to button up the crank case, I think.

A final wash to try to get rid of any crud in the crannies:

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Main ball bearing and oil tube in the right half, main roller bearing race in the left:

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The crank is ready--New sludge tube and plug, new main roller bearing, new +.010 Big end bearings.  The big end clearence plastigaged out at about 0.0015.  For things that are supposed to move relative to each other, I use an assembly lubricant made from molybdenum disulfide grease and either engine oil or STP.  For those that aren't, I use various loctite products.

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Putting it all together.  Sealed the crankcase halves with Loctite 518.

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One tough place to get at is the two straight slotted screws on the ears right below the top deck of the crankcase.  There is no way to get a decent sized screw driver in there to loosen or tighten.  I made a tool to remove the screws, but it worked pretty well to re-install them, too.

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Ready to continue assembly.  Home made engine stand really helped:

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Installed cams, cam gears, crank pinion, and engine sprocket.  I found that the special Triumph tool to remove cam gears works fine for removing the crank pinion also.  It just won't work to reinstall it.  In my case, the pinion tapped on pretty easily with a soft mallet, so I never had to buy the pinion tool.  (Good thing, since it's quite a bit more expensive than the cam gear tool.)

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