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August 20, 2016
[Click the pics for a better view]
some of its ancestors, the TR6 had civilized roll-up windows.
Each window is moved by parallelogram mechanism where a fixed
horizontal member has pivoting links at each end. The links
connect to a movable horizontal member that engages the channel at the
bottom of the window glass. A geared crank swings one of the end
links, which causes the movable member to raise and lower while staying
horizontal. The movable member is offset so it can bypass the
fixed member. A heavy clock spring is wound up when the window is
lowered so that it can assist in raising the window. There is
also a simple clutch mechanism attached to the crank gear so that the
window won't lower under its own weight.
regulators on my car were overall in good shape. The joints
between the members were still tight but flexible. The whole
mechanism cleaned up well. I was tempted to leave it at that,
but I really wanted to get a peek inside the clutch contraption, and I
wasn't going to let three little rivets stop me. Besides, the
crank stub one one of the units seemed a little floppy, and I wanted to
investigate that. First, the window link is raised until the
gears disengage. This de-tensions the big spring so that it
can be pulled right out.
Then I drilled out the rivets to remove the clutch housing. I
was glad I took this extra step. Inside the housing I
found a lot of dried up gritty grease. It looks wet in the
picture from the cleaning solvent that got into it.
clutch parts looked pretty good when cleaned up. The internal
spring is installed
such that turning the window crank either direction winds it up
slightly so that it contracts away from the wall of the housing.
On the other hand, the weight of the window tries to unwind the
spring so that it expands against the housing wall and binds. Note
that for the clutch to operate correctly, the tang on the small gear
piece has to be installed on the same side as the end hooks on the
spring--opposite to what's shown in the last pic below.
On the side that had the floppy crank handle (the drivers side), I
found that the stub shaft that the handle goes on had gotten loose in its
little arm thingy. It was originally just staked in place, and once it
got a little play, it wallowed out the hole until it was ready to
fall out. In fact, a couple of taps with a small hammer, and it did
ended up just using a couple of tack welds to put the assembly back
together. There is some noticable rust pitting damage on this part,
but it didn't seem to affect the function at all.
I greased up the clutch gizmo and put it back in place with blind rivets.
The regulators seem to move smoothly now. They'll go on the shelf with the dozens of other parts waiting for reunion.
Comments to Ed at email@example.com
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