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December 22, 2014


[Click the pics for a larger view]

The TR6 heater is conventional in every way.  A two speed fan draws air in from the cowl vent and delivers it to the dash vents and to a heat exchanger warmed by engine coolant.  A flap at the bottom of the unit can vary the proportion of warmed air delivered to the defroster vents and toe space.

The heater unit is an awkward looking sheet metal assembly.  Mine was dirty and rusty.

Popping the top cover exposed the fan motor.   The wire wound resistor is how the slow fan speed is accomplished.

This is the heater core.

Addressing the fan motor first, though the outside was crusty, the inside was pretty clean.  The brushes had plenty of meat left on them, and the commutator was in decent shape.  

Not too much to do here--cleaned up and painted the housing, brightened the commutator, reassembled, and tested.

Close inspection of the core didn't show any obvious problems.  I did a few acid flushes until the fluid ran free and clear, then did a pressure test, and it checked out OK.

Straightened a few fins, and added new foam seals to try to keep the air flowing where it should.

Meanwhile, derusted and painted the sheet metal pieces of the heater housing.

Assembled the housing around the core, using new foam seals, and new or replated hardware.

Added the fan assembly.

Then the control flap at the bottom.  When the flap is fully closed, as shown in the picture, little or no heated air is provided by the heater.  All the air moved by the fan would go to the upper ports and to the dash vents.  As the flap is opened part way, heated air is provided to the lower ports, which go to the defrost vents.  When the flap is fully open, most of the heated air would be dumped to the toe space.

New mounting grommets, new cowl seal, and I even managed to save the stickers.  This puppy goes on the shelf to wait for the happy day when it gets installed.

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