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January 24, 2020
Exhaust Manifold
GT6 exhaust manifolds were pretty
conventional cast iron affairs. Weighing in at almost 13
pounds, they are fairly robust, and don't seem to often cause
problems. They are basically a 6-2-1 arrangement, but
without equal length runs as a true header would normally have.
My manifold was rusty, as they usually are after 50 years on the
car.
First job was to separate the manifold from what was left of the
downpipe. It took way more effort than it should have.
All three studs survived the experience, but they were in pretty
rough shape. In the wrestling matches to remove them, the
results were: studs, 2; me, 1. For all three, I had to
resort to penetrants, heat, and a welded-on cheater bar.
Cleaning up the rust makes the piece much more pleasant to work
on. My 5 gallon de-rust bucket was only big enough to do
half of the manifold at a time. I use a solution of
phosphoric acid.
The acid bath leaves a black residue on the surface, but it
brushes off pretty easily, leaving bright metal.
I ended up drilling out the remnants of the two broken
studs. It is a really good thing that the head-side and
exhaust-side flanges are at right angles to each other. It
made the drilling setup pretty straight-forward, though not
exactly easy.
While it was set up, it seemed to make sense to face off the
flange face. It was pretty pitted.
I ended up facing off the head-side flanges, too. They were
in better shape, but weren't exactly co-planar. It took
three passes, totaling about 0.020" to get them all flat.
A couple of coats of silver manifold paint, and new stainless
studs and brass nuts.
So this puppy goes on the shelf with the growing number of
refurbed parts.
This was a pretty simple one, even with the stubborn studs.
I also want to add a couple of bungs for oxygen sensors for an AFR
meter, but I'll wait until the engine is installed to determine
the best places to put them.
Cost for this little exercise was under $10 for the studs and
nuts.
Comments to Ed at mailto:elhollin1@yahoo.com
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